The days with our crew Stine was coming to an end. After the long slow passage to Lagos we had a couple of days before saying goodbye. The sole (a flatfish) that Stine caught on the passage was turned into a nice barbeque dinner on the beach nearby. Lagos is a popular spot om the Algarve-coast both for sailors and tourists, with beaches, caves and lots of sailing opportunities around the corner. The river Ribadeiro Bensafrim divides the modern part of town where the marina is situated from the old part of town with the surrounding town walls, churches and restaurants.
On our second day in Lagos I got visit from my old friend from university, Cissi, with her baby boy who was born just a couple of weeks after we left Sweden. We strolled down the cobbled streets, enjoyed some lunch on one of the plazas and visited the beach “Praia do pi. Vhao” on the far end of the old town, which is beautifully surrounded by cliffs and caves. It is quite a luxury to have access to shade right on the beach even without the rent-out umbrellas that are very frequent on this coast.
Then it was time to say goodbye to Stine, and we celebrated over three weeks of sailing together with a dinner out on the town. She left us early morning to fly back from Faro, and it truly was a bit sad to say goodbye, and we feel lucky that with our first attempt of trying on crew we have also made a new friend. In the guest book she left us a guide to the most similar flags that we always seem to confuse – Holland, France, Luxembourg (and Russia). Did you know that Luxembourg and Holland has the exact same flag, but only with different shades of blue!? 😀 Thanks a lot for these three weeks Rally-Stine, a.k.a. Danish_Deckhand, you are always welcome back to sail with us!
Lucky for us, we didn´t have to feel lonely for long, since Jens parents flew in the same day for a visit! They rented a car so the next day we could take a tour inland and out to Cape St. Vincent, the most westerly point of Continental Europe. The lighthouse provided stunning views over the landscape that we passed with the boat just a few days earlier. The steep cliffs have up to 50 meter drop down to the sea, and the stone ranges from beige sandstone, dark ancient rock and red sandstone layer on top. It was clear that we had arrived to an area popular among tourists, since there were street stands, buses and cars all around. In the evening we had some nice dinner on the restaurant on top of the Mercado in Lagos, and then it was time to say goodbye to Jens father who was just visiting over the weekend.
The sail to Barbate you could read about in the last post, and since we didn’t plan on going there we didn’t really know what to expect. This small town across the Spanish border and just before the Med, is not as exploited as the Portuguese coast before, or the Costa del Sol which starts after Gibraltar. It is however famous for something else – the Bluefin Tuna (also called Red Tuna). It is caught in the “almadraba”, using an artisan method of fishing with labyrinth of nets, that’s more than a thousand years old. Along the beach in Barbate all the restaurants are bragging of their tuna specialties, and we tried it barbequed, boiled and pickled. They also have really good mojitos on the restaurants along the beach, which seem like the most common drink here after beer.
We also had a really nice dinner on a restaurant close by the harbour, and the last night we did our own barbeque by the harbour together with sailor-friend Stewart (who we first met in outside Porto) who arrived the day after us. The amount of foreign boats is steadily increasing (especially the British), even though we still see most the neighbouring countries such as Spanish, Portuguese and French boats.
Next time we’ll tell you more about our sail through Gibraltar, and Costa del Sol!
NOTES FOR SAILORS
Lagos is a sheltered harbour with good facilities for sailors. They have 460 spots but also very popular, sometimes called “Sticky Lagos” because sailors tend to stay longer than they expected. There is a very well-stocked chandlery by the fishing harbour next door, probably one of the best we have passed on our journey.
Barbate also provides reasonable shelter, we had strong easterlies when we stayed there but was protected by the large buildings by the harbour. It is a good place to stop between Lagos and Gibraltar. There are showers and washing machine, but no WIFI and a bit of a walk into town where you can stock up on the large supermarket just outside town. We paid 12,91€/night low season-price and 23€/night high season price (started 1st of June).