Where´s the sunshine Spain is so famous for? Our sail to Cudillero offered rain and no wind, so we had to motor the whole way. We threw in a fishing line and hoped for some mackerel but didn’t have any luck. When we go by motor we tend to go slow to increase the range, and with the grey skies we needed something to lift the spirit. So, I decided to make some apple crumble. Since Jens promised me an oven before crossing the Atlantic we still don´t have an oven, but it is possible to make an easy apple crumble just using a frying pan that is still as delicious! How?
Start with the crumble. Fry 2 dl oats in some butter until it gets some colour. Add some tablespoons of sugar and a little grounded cinnamon or cardamom for flavour. When the sugar has melted and it smells like heaven, pour the crumble into a bowl. Peel two big apples (or four small ones) and cut them into smaller pieces. Add some more butter in the frying pan and fry the apples for a couple of minutes. Add half a teaspoon of cinnamon and some sugar (adjust the amount depending on how sour the apples are). When the apples have gone soft, pour the crumble on top and serve with some vanilla custard. Yummie!
With the new energy, we made it to Cudillero in good spirit. We read that there was supposed to be visitor moorings in the harbour, but when we arrived they were not easy to find and we waited in a “Belgian” sailor that arrived just after us to ask if he knew where we could stay. He pointed towards the jetty and said we could moor there, even helped us remove a small dinghy that where in the way. Turns out he was not from Spain but a lot of Spaniards use the Belgium flag because they want to avoid the yearly tax that Spanish boats have to pay… When we were all tied up at the jetty we were about to head out to explore the town a bit before dinner. We started talking to some fishermen that told us about what fish we could expect to catch in these waters, as well as what bait to use. Then one of them gave us two mackerel for dinner. “There’s different ways to get fish!” Jens said, referring to the positive outcomes that a conversation on the jetty can give if you just make an effort…
Cudillero was the sweetest little town. They basically had only one street, that went steep up in the mountain. But instead, they had steep walking paths of stairs that was zigzagging up the hillsides where all the houses stood side by side. It is definitely worth the climb up to see the view!
On the opposite side of the harbour there was a big tent where a local band was going to have concert later on, the last party of the Easter. After rowing back to our boat in a dinghy we could lend from the boat club, we could hear them play about the time we wanted to go to sleep since the day after we wanted to get up early to match the tide.
Then it was time to continue. The day started with medium winds which then increased (up to at least 8m/s) and we were flying across the sea only with the Genua. Around 16 o´clock we arrived in Ribadeo and some friendly Austrian sailors that were also visiting yachts lent us the key to the marina so we could take a shower even though the office had closed for the week. This is the start of the Galicia region, the third region we will visit on the North Coast of Spain (after Cantabria and Asturia). We took a walk around town and finally found a store where we could by some Easter candy. But I must say that the Spaniards are way behind the Swedes on the sweets department 😛
The sun was shining on us as we passed through the Plaza Mayor. There was some great looking buildings by the square, at least from that side. When we took a street down towards the harbour we saw the back of the house and was quite surprised that it really was in ruins. The windows crashed and the whole building sealed off since it was in a terrible shape. Surprising in a way that they don’t take care even of these architectural masterpieces. We have stumbled across a lot of buildings that have not been maintained for many years and seems totally deserted, even if the building next door is in perfect shape. I wonder if it is the bad economy in Spain that is causing this or if it is always have been common?
Up next – sailing through Galicia, anchoring and levelling up our fishing gear…
NOTES FOR SAILORS
The harbour in Cudillero is run by a boat club and is not very suitable for visitors. The entrance is narrow with rocks and is only recommended to enter in calm weather and on the top half of tide. Most of the moorings seems to be occupied by fishing boats and other boats that has a permanent mooring spot. We were guided to the short end of one of the two pontoons, which we shared with one other smaller yacht, and that was almost too tight. There are no facilities at all (besides electricity and water on the jetty. We would highly recommend to call ahead if you would like to go in here, either on channel 9 or by phone.
Ribadeo has a nice marina with good pontoons and hot showers. The town is also pretty nice. We only stayed one afternoon but it was a good stopover with easy access and good shelter (see photo below).