Then finally, the day arrived that we left Norway. Our journey up the Norwegian coast offered beautiful scenery, friendly people and white wooden houses everywhere. The autumn storms also forced us to stay in harbour several times. Let´s take a peak in the log book and see how the journey went!
Stavern guest harbour
Oct 2nd at 18 arrived at Stavern after sailing 36 Nm from Nordkoster.
The wind was blowing about 10 m/s and we sailed with the jib and double reefs in the main sail at between 7-10 knots. Stavern guest harbour was closed, but we could stay there for free and use their facilities. Stavern is called “the painters city by the sea” with a cute city centre. We visited some of the many art galleries before walking out to the viewpoint where they built a memorial for all the Norwegians that died during the World War II.
Memorial outside Stavern and Jens inspecting their old construction of houses
Oct 3rd at 18 arrived in Lyngør mooring next to the sailmakers shop after 41Nm.
This guest harbour had closed down its facilities for the season, but we still had to pay a fee. It is a cute town without any cars and with a long history as a sheltered bay for ships.
Oct 4th 16 arrived in Lillesand after 42Nm of fast downwind sailing.
Lillesand is a small town in a sheltered bay, and here we stayed a little longer due to the stormy weather that developed, we also wanted to get some things down and take a break from sailing.
Oct 7th at 18:30 arrived in Mandal after sailing 44 Nm and a new speed record of 12,4 knots with second reef in the main sail (it was blowing 12 m/s).
We were proud of ourselves that we got out in 12-13 m/s for the first time and Mouni felt safe, no problem! Hard work steering though. Mandal is Norways most southern town and here we got stuck, once again, since it was blowing gale force winds outside.
Sheltered bay before Mandal town
Oct 9th at 17.30 arrived in Rekefjorden after 53 Nm sailing and a new speed record of 14,5 knots after surfing down some nice waves.
We changed our plan, instead of rushing up to Stavanger to catch Lottas train, she would get off at Egersund so we got half a day to explore Rekefjorden. Good choice!
Oct 10th at 18:30 arrived in Egersund after 16,6 Nm slow sailing along beautiful coast.
First time we tried the maquerel fishing kit we got as a gift in Stenungsund, and we caught one at the first try! Was not sure what kind of fish it was and what to do with it.. Lotta arrived in the early morning after and we leave after breakfast.
Oct 11th at 11.30 arrived in Sirevåg after slow sailing.
Perk of slow speed, we catched some more fish for lunch! Sirevåg is the last safe harbour before Tananger, and since it is rather far we decided to wait there until the next day that would get a little more windy.
Happy crew in the floatation suits that keeps us warm and safe
Oct 12th 18.45 arrived in Stavanger city centre after 48,8 Nm of smooth sailing.
We got some well deserved beer as the sun set in Stavanger. The morning after me and Lotta went out to hunt for gasoline to our generator and some guest flags. The boat stores were too far away most of them, so we gave up and bought some fabric to make our own guest flags. Stavanger has a really nice city centre with cute shops. We would not advise sailors to stay at Vågen in the middle of the centre as we did, because there are no facilities there and rather noisy. After asking the tourist information, we realised that it is not possible to sail to the Pulpit Rock in Lysingefjorden, so we decided to head for Tau harbour instead.
Oct 13th at 17 arrived in Tau guest harbour after trying to sail without wind (hint: it doesn´t work)
A nice man adviced us where to stay in the harbour and we moor longside the pier. In the time spent here, there are many cute Norwegian older men that start to chat with us and we learn that quite a few have sailed to Shetland from here, but none in October. Lotta works on our Q-flag that we need to request permission to enter new countries, and me and Jens hike up the Pulpit Rock.
Early morning leaving Tau
Oct 15th at 18.00 arrived in Haugesund, a change of destination due to gale in the weather forecast.
We almost arrived at Utsira, the most western harbour on a small island, when I checked the forecast and we decided to change destination so we wouldn’t get stuck in the new storm that was arriving the day after. It had seemed to be a good window of opportunity to cross the North Sea the days after, but a storm changed its course and we decided to stay in Haugesund until a new opportunity would arise.
A few days later we set out for that adventure. Now we finally made it to Shetland islands, more about that the next time!